By Michael Kowalinski
Haider Ackermann is thinking of a romantic man strolling through a palazzo in the early evening. His Spring 2011 show, also his menswear debut, was presented in Florence and was an exercise in draping and layering. His ideas from the womenswear translated into the men’s, as he focused on the waist and haphazardly tied layers at the waist.
Wide, loose pants and harem pants, accompanied the looks, but one couldn’t dismiss this collection as being simply ethnic. No, the ideas there – the loose cardigans, vests or jackets belted or tied at the waist had the distinct Ackermann ease that echoed in the womenswear. These, including the pants, were in rich blue, red, orange, and black and grey to offer structure and a touch of severity. Although the collection was in no way a “unisex” collection, Ackermann’s menswear could easily be worn by both men and women. Looking at the men, it seems he is not overly interested in assigning gender roles. The models were both young and older, men and women, and Ackermann seemed to be telling us to do what we will with the clothes and wear them however we wish. This idea is exactly what fashion should be in 2011.