Haute Couture Runway Report: Christian Dior Fall Winter 10/11

August 6, 2010 By 1 Comment

By: Michael Kowalinski

Collection: Christian Dior
Season: Haute Couture Fall Winter  10/11
Designer: John Galliano

Was it perhaps a coincidence that John Galliano’s collection for the house of Dior featured tulip shaped skirts in a show setting that featured oversized flowers? Of course not, and they were delicious. Stephen Jones designed the plastic wrap head dresses, designed to look like the plastic wrap one associates with fresh flowers. Indeed, Galliano approached the idea of a woman living inside a flower, quite literally. This is the world he gives us every season, a world where we are free to fuel our dreams and to lose ourselves in fantasy. If life can be a playground (and it certainly can be in the decadent world of Haute Couture) then Mr. Galliano is the leader.

Flower petals could be seen as embroideries on coats and jackets, trims or adorning the new tulip shaped skirts. The color combinations were perhaps the most intense we have seen in womenswear for a while. Pinks and oranges danced with exotic greens and blues, among other tantalizing concoctions. A ruffled dress had the look of a photograph, but one of the strengths of the show was in the fact that Galliano stayed away from the expected frou frou that one might have expected for such a delicate theme. He approached it with his larger than life love and zest for extreme beauty. Then again, doesn’t he always?

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Spring Runway Report – Pt 2.

April 29, 2010 By Leave a Comment

By Michael Kowalinski

One could hardly generalize the Spring 2010 menswear collections as being nostalgic, though elements of the past did not come quietly.These were clothes for men who appreciate classic, at times traditional, concepts of style with an eye towards the future. How best to describe them? One word constantly comes to mind: timeless.

Transparency

In a season that concentrated on strength in color, both subtle and extravagant, and structure, there were spots of softness. Seen on the runway at Dior Homme, Yves Saint Laurent and Raf Simons sheer, practically transparent pieces floated on the models’ bodies. Dior kept the same rock n’ roll edge from the days of Hedi Slimane, but in a new silhouette. New, loose pants were still chic but a little more youthful. Sheer black floaty jackets, black tees and vests were shown alongside sheer black and brown suit jackets and shirts with neat collars. Similarly, though a little more opaque, long black cardigans could be seen at YSL that translated the same ease. It was strongest and clearest at Raf Simons, where that lighter than air tanks and tees with shadows of snakes, which looked like holograms floating on the body, paraded alongside structured, belted suits. The lack of solidity in these pieces, ironically, gave the shows a soild attitude, one of effortless sex appeal and modernity.

             


Camel and Beige

Elegance is always in style and there are few colors can be more elegant than camel, or, yes, beige. They seemed to be everywhere in Paris and New York. Phillip Lim’s collection could be camel or beige, unless otherwise noted, on long coats, printed shorts and sweaters. Maison Martin Margiela showed the classic trench coat, as did Neil Barrett who also subscribed to the light aesthetic this season. Barrett’s versions had asymmetrical closures and lapels and could be seen alongside short sleeves button down shirts worn with drop crotch camel pants. Indeed, days in the desert beckoned. Pops of light grey punctuated throughout and continued the subtle, elegant mood. Beige suit jackets and shorts were conservative, in contrast to the beige tanks with psychedelic prints. Less severe, but just as focused was John Galliano in Paris, where beige and camel military jackets, waistcoats and, yes, trench coats, were worn with the loosest fitting pants in recent history. This could be the main argument for relaxed daywear.

            

Relaxed Denim 

After so many seasons that pushed an impossibly slim silhouette, designers have thought about taking a break and breathing out for a moment. Denim either dominated or made a cameo in many shows and was loose, distressed, at times nearly sloppy and extremely relaxed. At Junya Watanabe and Kenzo extremely distressed jeans were rolled at the ankle, as they were at Bottega Veneta, where they were worn with a jacket and tie. Denim was as relaxed as can be, while still having a pulse, at Adam Kimmel’s cowboy influenced presentation and were part of the quintessential relaxed American look that insisted on staying this season.

 

            

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SPRING RUNWAY REPORT – Pt 1

April 27, 2010 By Leave a Comment

By Michael Kowalinski

One could hardly generalize the Spring 2010 menswear collections as being nostalgic, though elements of the past did not come quietly. These were clothes for men who appreciate classic, at times traditional, concepts of style with an eye towards the future. How best to describe them? One word constantly comes to mind: timeless.

Graphic 

Girls just wanna have fun, but so do men. For spring, the graphic prints that appeared on so many runways should come with a warning. Indeed, they could cause some to become dizzy but fear not, designers showed new ways of wearing them easily and fearlessly.

Easy prints appeared at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim, Bottega Veneta and Marni. At Marc by Marc, the mood was a playful one, with cheeky, colorful and fun prints in unexpected, bright color combinations. At Phillip Lim, a standout easy fitting suit had the look of smashed stained glass and floral prints in muted shades of red and orange felt new on loose fitting pants and a single breasted suit at Bottega Veneta. Marni, too, joined the club of prints on easy to wear pieces like loose fitting pants button down shirts with strong art deco inspired prints.

           

The mood at John Galliano and Comme des Garcons was a psychedelic one, with prints that had the look of old tapestries, wallpaper and playful, nearly cartoonish mixing and matching of colors and ideas. At Comme des Garcons, patches and panels of what looked like jacket linings gave the show a playful feeling and this season, designers were clearly having a ball.

Leather 

For spring, leather is in the details, or in small touches to an updated classic. It was meant to be worn in unexpected ways, as seen on the runways in Milan, Paris and New York, where it took on a new, modern sex appeal. Leather tees worn with cuffed leather shorts or under a jacket, at Phillip Lim, echoed the minimalism movement happening in womenswear. Leather became an element in the collections that pushed a new take on power dressing, with panels of black leather on lapels and the sleeves of suit jackets at Louis Vuitton. Rick Owens fused leather with other fabrics, in jackets with leather sleeves and long coats that looked like the classic denim jacket, updated, with panels of black leather. Adorning various fabrics with leather could be seen at Neil Barrett, with panels of leather on pants and the top halves of trench coats, suit jackets and the front of tunics. Modernity and sex appeal? We’ll take it.

            

50′s Era 

One might be surprised that Cary Grant wasn’t sitting front row this season. Indeed, elements of the 1950s crept back for spring, with the appearance of double-breasted suit jackets and pants cuffed at the ankle. Of course, these looks instantly bring to mind the idea of power dressing in the 80s. These were classic ideas that were youthful and showed ease in dressing for the office. Worn short and fitted in a jacket or peacoat at Band of Outsiders, or loose fitting in a black and charcoal pinstripe over perforated turtlenecks with narrow black pants at Prada, they managed to be the epitome of boyishness and modernity. Worn with crisp white shirts buttoned up to the neck at Raf Simons, they possessed a classic, chic severe edge. They were electric orange at Bottega Veneta and worn with pants cuffed at the ankle, a fun nod to the era of overt masculinity. Phillip Lim showed cuffed leather pants and Louis Vuitton’s were relaxed with tucked in, open shirts and sandals. They were playful, subtle nods to power dressing, but in a new way. What do you think, Mr. Grant?

            

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S/S Denim Looks – Part 1

April 20, 2010 By Leave a Comment

By Michael Kowalinski

What is the quintessential men’s wardrobe staple? Well, every man needs denim, be it jeans, a jacket, shorts or all of the above. The new way to wear denim has many incarnations, but one message is clear – looking cool and effortless is, well, back.  For spring, it’s about looking comfortable and relaxed, as if you went with your gut instinct. Looking cool and on trend shouldn’t require too much thought.

We’ve compiled our favorite denim looks for Spring /Summer 2010. Wear them with ease, confidence and however you like. After all, that seems to be the message this spring.

 

Relaxed and Rolled at the Ankle

A relaxed fit jean rolled up at the ankle is an effortless, easy look that made its way onto many a runway for spring. We all have that relaxed pair of jeans that we didn’t know could look so cool and now is the time to bring them out again with confidence. Wear them with a loose fitting tee or tight fitting tank, like at Marc Jacobs or with a collared shirt and blazer like at Kenzo. Many of these jeans are distressed, so no need to stress about keeping them pristine. At Junya Watanabe, they are worn with a fitted plaid jacket and an ascot, proving that mixing your loose jeans can look cool and effortless or serious and chic.

                     

                                                         

                                                            Denim as Part of a Suit

While denim may be considered a casual fabric or look, a new way to wear it is as part of a suit. Wear formal elements of a suit, like a jacket, but in denim. At Adam Kimmel, the arbiter of New York cool, jeans are worn with a denim jacket, waistcoat and bowtie.  At Bottega Veneta, jeans, relaxed and rolled at the ankle, are paired with a jacket and tie. This can be worn out to dinner and cocktails and has an ease yet structure that can translate into appropriate attire for many a social occasion. Lanvin designed a small capsule collection for Acne, which featured dark denim single-breasted blazers that look business casual and fun. Wear it how you like. Even a single element of a suit in your look will take you from day to evening with ease.

                  

 

Torn

Go on, tear it up! Torn and ripped jeans are in, which means you can be hard on them and no one will know.  Faded, distressed or dark, when worn low on the hip they can ooze a down home kind of ease that’s irresistible and sexy. Wear them with a loose white sweater like at Martin Margiela or with a tucked in collared shirt like at D&G. John Galliano himself wore his torn, acid wash jeans with a waistcoat and lace up boots, proving the look can be tough and mean, or neat and sweet. Gents, it’s up to you.

 

                  

 

                                                                       Super Skinny

What about us guys who have a lean, waif like body who find ourselves sidling over to the ladies’ department in need of a long, narrow jean? You can safely put those down and come over the men’s side. With so hip it hurts brands like Acne, Balmain and Trussardi 1911 showing snug, super skinny jeans for spring, there’s plenty to choose from. Gentlemen beware – these are not the skinny jeans of yesteryear, but narrow, long jeans that can be worn with anything. They can be black or dark blue, with random zippers on the thigh for a tough, biker look or clean and simple if the goal is to be conservative and chic. They leave much to the imagination, but show you’re “in the know”, and isn’t that the object of this game?

                     

 

S/S Denim Looks Part 2 - Coming 4/22/2010

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