By Michael Kowalinski

One could hardly generalize the Spring 2010 menswear collections as being nostalgic, though elements of the past did not come quietly. These were clothes for men who appreciate classic, at times traditional, concepts of style with an eye towards the future. How best to describe them? One word constantly comes to mind: timeless.

Graphic 

Girls just wanna have fun, but so do men. For spring, the graphic prints that appeared on so many runways should come with a warning. Indeed, they could cause some to become dizzy but fear not, designers showed new ways of wearing them easily and fearlessly.

Easy prints appeared at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Phillip Lim, Bottega Veneta and Marni. At Marc by Marc, the mood was a playful one, with cheeky, colorful and fun prints in unexpected, bright color combinations. At Phillip Lim, a standout easy fitting suit had the look of smashed stained glass and floral prints in muted shades of red and orange felt new on loose fitting pants and a single breasted suit at Bottega Veneta. Marni, too, joined the club of prints on easy to wear pieces like loose fitting pants button down shirts with strong art deco inspired prints.

The mood at John Galliano and Comme des Garcons was a psychedelic one, with prints that had the look of old tapestries, wallpaper and playful, nearly cartoonish mixing and matching of colors and ideas. At Comme des Garcons, patches and panels of what looked like jacket linings gave the show a playful feeling and this season, designers were clearly having a ball.

Leather 

For spring, leather is in the details, or in small touches to an updated classic. It was meant to be worn in unexpected ways, as seen on the runways in Milan, Paris and New York, where it took on a new, modern sex appeal. Leather tees worn with cuffed leather shorts or under a jacket, at Phillip Lim, echoed the minimalism movement happening in womenswear. Leather became an element in the collections that pushed a new take on power dressing, with panels of black leather on lapels and the sleeves of suit jackets at Louis Vuitton. Rick Owens fused leather with other fabrics, in jackets with leather sleeves and long coats that looked like the classic denim jacket, updated, with panels of black leather. Adorning various fabrics with leather could be seen at Neil Barrett, with panels of leather on pants and the top halves of trench coats, suit jackets and the front of tunics. Modernity and sex appeal? We’ll take it.

50′s Era 

One might be surprised that Cary Grant wasn’t sitting front row this season. Indeed, elements of the 1950s crept back for spring, with the appearance of double-breasted suit jackets and pants cuffed at the ankle. Of course, these looks instantly bring to mind the idea of power dressing in the 80s. These were classic ideas that were youthful and showed ease in dressing for the office. Worn short and fitted in a jacket or peacoat at Band of Outsiders, or loose fitting in a black and charcoal pinstripe over perforated turtlenecks with narrow black pants at Prada, they managed to be the epitome of boyishness and modernity. Worn with crisp white shirts buttoned up to the neck at Raf Simons, they possessed a classic, chic severe edge. They were electric orange at Bottega Veneta and worn with pants cuffed at the ankle, a fun nod to the era of overt masculinity. Phillip Lim showed cuffed leather pants and Louis Vuitton’s were relaxed with tucked in, open shirts and sandals. They were playful, subtle nods to power dressing, but in a new way. What do you think, Mr. Grant?