Season: Haute Couture Givenchy Fall Winter 10/11
Designer: Riccardo Tisci
Riccardo Tisci’s revitalization of Haute Couture at the house of Givenchy is not unlike the mood of Yves Saint Laurent’s 70s Paris, when fashion morphed from something sober and perhaps predictable into something freer and less obvious. It was a moment when fashion could be what it wanted and Tisci has done the same with Couture for this generation. The collection was shown in an intimate presentation, and this was entirely appropriate and right as one needed to be close to the clothes to fully see and understand the detail of the embroideries.
They say that the devil is in the details, and if that is true, then perhaps the collection had a touch of evil in the intense details on offer. Really, though, it couldn’t, looking at the white, at times lace, floor length dresses and jackets. One of these jackets featured clusters of pearls and crystals on the back that were, if not angelic, strikingly modern and stunning. Indeed, the collection featured a light palette, with the exception of one dress and patchwork leather coat. Ostrich feathers graduated towards the floor in the first look, but the furs were perhaps one of the standouts. They were bleached, giving them the look of hair and adorned a jacket and swept the floor on a floor length sheer (a dominant feature of the collection) dress that played peek-a-boo. One of these jackets featured the fur precision cut to look like a spine. Was this a reference to Tisci’s fascination with the gothic? Perhaps, but it was subtle enough to demand a standing ovation. Oh, let’s be frank. The whole collection demanded one.